LUMIERE

COTSWOLDS BAILLIAGE LUNCHEON - NOVEMBER 2022

The final gathering for the Cotswolds Bailliage took place at the award winning Lumiere in Cheltenham. The restaurant is tucked behind the Promenade on Clarence Parade and has a capacity of less than 30. During the pandemic they increased production of restaurant ingredients from the family smallholding including varieties not usually commercially available. This handpicked produce featured in each course on our plates. What luck to be amongst the group who were greeted with such hospitality, smooth service, delicious dishes and perfectly curated pairings which were greatly enjoyed by us all. The non-alcohol pairing as well as the fish alternative to the venison with its rose flight was appreciated. Each course, from the canapés presented at the table to the dessert, served up new delights sourced locally and cooked with care and panache by John, who was working alone in the kitchen. The Woodchester Valley Vineyard Reserve Cuvee had travelled less than 20 miles, but would stand up to a similar bottle crossing the channel and logging almost 400 miles. Helen and Matthew introduced each dish and the flight. Our first course with smoked eel from the River Severn and Wye was revealed with a flourish, a puff of smoke and pops of salty caviar set off its dense texture. The eel was balanced by the 2021 Koster-Wolf Riesling from a winery founded in 1648, now cultivated by the eleventh generation using eco- friendly low yield plantings. “Time Waits for No One” Finca Bacara 2018, a Spanish organic wine with 100% Monastrell grapes stood up to our blackberry garnished tender venison as did the hen of the woods mushroom providing an interesting texture to the dish.  Onto a dessert of a soufflé elevated with a concentrated sauce of damson from the kitchen garden. The accompanying liqueur made from plums (ume) preserved in the finest Ginjo Sake provided a smooth rich and warming counterpoint albeit clocking around 6,000 miles to tickle our palate! A truly fitting conclusion to 2022 with a very special luncheon indeed. Jacqueline Horsfield Bailli