An exclusive interview with Anton Mosimann, Grand Officer, Maitre Rotisseur

The father figure to many of today’s high profile chefs, Anton Mosimann, who turned 60 last year, is as busy as ever but, we were thrilled when he agreed to talk to Philip Evins especially for La Chaîne in Britain (the UK). He has been a member since 1977 and regularly attends or supports our events. This year he has agreed to be one of our judges in the finals of the Jeune Commis Rotisseurs competition…

As many people know, Anton was born in Switzerland, the only child of Swiss restaurateurs, in the Jura mountains. His parents ran a restaurant near Berne and his early memories were of helping his parents in the kitchen of the restaurant which led to his love of food and even at that young age he vowed to become a cook. He started his apprenticeship at a local hotel at the age of 15 and at the age of twenty-five became one of the youngest chefs to receive the coveted Chef de Cuisine Diploma.

In his early years he worked and travelled extensively, gaining international recognition in Italy, Canada and Japan, until he joined London’s Dorchester hotel where, in 1975, at the age of 28, he became the youngest ever Maitre Chef de Cuisine. He stayed at the Dorchester for 13 years and with his skill and energy gained the hotel two Michelin stars.

Hotel food in the early 70s was considered bland and service poor. Anton started a new era and new methods of cooking, which were revolutionary in those days. He introduced faster, fresher, healthier, more palatable food and recognised the importance of first-rate service.

Philip: “Since you left the Dorchester and started Mosimann’s, your own private members club, and much else besides, what changes in dining out have you seen in the last few years?”
Anton: “In Britain over the last 10-15 there has been a fantastic revolution in the quality and variety of food, a great increase in the interest in culture generally and I have been caught-up and proud to be a part of this change. London is a place with real buzz, it is held in high esteem by visitors from abroad and the food standards are as good as anywhere in the world.
Philip: “What about current trends in cooking styles?”
Anton: “Today’s major focuses are on creativity in the kitchen and quality of produce. For an example say with our fish, the English fish we buy each morning from Billingsgate or if it is Scottish it comes on the overnight train from Scotland. What could be more delightful than really fresh scallops gently steamed for 15-20 seconds with a few herbs and a little olive oil.
I think it is very important to let the food taste of itself – a trend in some countries, and the United States comes to mind, of making dishes that look spectacular but which are too complicated with too many flavours. Perhaps there is another trend – keeping health in the forefront – eating well keeps you feeling well. 22 years ago I started Cuisine Naturelle keeping things light, with no cream and no butter. At the time few people joined me, now a lot of young chefs have found this is a style that many customers really want.”
Philip: “Are the three legs of hospitality, food, wine and service, equal in the mind of the consumer?”
Anton: “That varies person to person of course. But the biggest change is the growing importance and interest in wine. With the amount of overseas travel we are exposed to new wines and people read more, visit winemaking areas on holiday. One only has to see the growth in the number of restaurants with a formally trained sommelier to appreciate this is now important. Consumers also know better what they like.”
Philip: “With the big increase in eating out whether due to work patterns or improving life standards, how do we ensure the next generation of top chefs? Are our schools training enough students?”
Anton: “Philip, you can only teach so much in school. I am a great believer in on the job training. To become a great chef requires of lot of work, a lot of experimentation and a lot of practice. The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs’ annual Young Commis Chef’s Competition is a good way of raising the ambitions of and the interest in the next generation of top chefs.”
Philip: “You are clearly very busy with the Club and the many other parts of Mosimann Ltd, what do you to relax?”
Anton: “I really enjoy what I do. I can’t wait to get to work every day.It’s fun. Even after 45 years! But I admit health is important to me, whether through food or exercise. I run up to an hour every morning. Then of course you know I have a love of motoring. In the summer months I drive my open top 1960s Triumph TR4. Last year my wife Kathryn and I competed in the Peking to Paris Rally. It was a wonderful experience, I love my car and we really enjoyed driving through different terrains, meeting different people and cultures. The foods varied and for instance, in Mongolia, I can best describe it as different! But altogether a great experience.”

Thanking Anton for his time, Philip was reminded that perhaps in the future he may have more time to relax now that his two sons have joined the business. Philipp and Mark have both had extensive training and management experience around the world and are now joint managing directors of Mosimann Ltd. which boasts not only the private members club, but a superb cooking academy for professionals and amateurs alike, private party services, fine foods and other related activities.

The Academy, based in Battersea, London opened in 1996 and offers a wide range of cookery courses for all skill levels. Courses are ‘hands on’ and vary in type and length. Chaîne members who are looking to increase their own culinary skills may like to look at the Mosimann website to see for yourselves what is available.